time-keeper


Cleguer Horology debuts the Inspiration One Souscription with a proprietary innate escapement

April 2026


Cleguer Horology debuts the Inspiration One Souscription with a proprietary innate escapement

With a philosophy rooted in precision, depth, and mystery, Cleguer Horology makes its debut with the Inspiration One Souscription - a technically ambitious, architecturally expressive time-only watch that reimagines the natural escapement.

C

leguer Horology officially debuts with the launch of its first timepiece in the Inspiration Collection. Dedicated to advancing mechanical precision and contemporary watch architecture, this independent Swiss brand was founded by watchmaking engineer Mathieu Cleguer.

The Inspiration Collection is a series of time-only watches introducing escapement advancements, constant-force mechanisms, and other solutions dedicated to enhancing chronometric precision. The inaugural release, the Inspiration One Souscription, made in titanium, is limited to 12 pieces, all pre-sold, with deliveries scheduled for the second half of the year.

Designed with a careful consideration of the elements that should be highlighted and those that should be concealed, the Inspiration One was conceived to create a sense of depth, mystery, and intrigue. “For me, what is important is to create volume inside the watch, to highlight what deserves to be seen and to hide what should remain a mystery,” says Mathieu. “When you leave something to the imagination, it keeps people engaged — it makes them return to the piece again and again.”

Cleguer Horology debuts the Inspiration One Souscription with a proprietary innate escapement

The movement’s architecture accentuates this sense of depth, descending in tiers from the central seconds to the barrel bridge, and finally down to the mainplate. The Inspiration One strikes a balance between presence and wearability with a titanium case measuring 38.5mm in diameter and 12mm in thickness.

Designed for clarity and precision, it features an expansive, open construction that selectively reveals key elements, such as the proprietary innate escapement, an oversized 12.9mm balance wheel and the power reserve indication on the front of the watch, and the gear train, ratchet click system and Maltese Cross stopwork on the reverse. The mainplate and bridge are crafted from nickel silver, finished in a combination of champagne and rhodium plating.

At the heart of Cleguer Horology’s debut piece is the innate escapement, a reinterpretation of the natural escapement. It resolves the non-self-starting limitation inherent in a traditional natural escapement by drawing on principles from the Fasoldt escapement, combining the dual escape wheels of the natural escapement with a tangential impulse delivered through a lever, as in Charles Fasoldt’s creation. This underscores Mathieu’s commitment to chronometric performance and technical refinement.

Additionally, the integration of a stopwork mechanism atop the ratchet-click system is a rarely seen approach in modern watchmaking. This system limits power reserve to 36 hours and improves the chronometry by also limiting the variation of torque delivered. “The aspect I love about the watch is the winding and click system, creating a mystery motion with the integration of the crown wheel concentrated on the second wheel and an oversized ratchet that seems to connect to nothing,” says Mathieu. Although the escapement lever remains largely hidden, its design is also intricate and distinctive.

Cleguer Horology debuts the Inspiration One Souscription with a proprietary innate escapement

The decentred champlevé Grand Feu enamel subdial, which displays the hours and minutes, subtly conceals some of the mechanical complexity beneath, while the elongated central seconds hand adds to the visual intrigue. Inscriptions have been kept to a minimum to maintain a clean dial. The brand name is only engraved on the inner flank of the case and the power reserve numerals are visible on the front, while the numbered edition, collection name, and number of jewels appear on the reverse.

Cleguer Horology’s distinctive colour palette is another defining characteristic. The Souscription series of 12 reflects Mathieu’s affinity for dark purple, a color that will continue to represent the brand. It is a shade oben associated with creativity, depth, and regal refinement. “It has a feminine touch, which is interesting in watchmaking — a traditionally masculine field — so it feels like a perfect balance for me,” he explains.

A history enthusiast with roots in Brittany, France, Mathieu has subtly incorporated elements of his Celtic heritage into the watch’s design. Discerning collectors may recognize a reference to the Breton flag behind the 12 o’clock marker. This 12 o’clock marker with his three dots also symbolizes the three keys elements visible on the front of the watches: the barrels as the source of energy, the dial as the display of Ome, and the balance wheel as the heart of chronometry.

Beyond the first 12 pieces in titanium, Cleguer Horology will produce the Inspiration One in batches of 12 in four additional case metals. To complete the planned production, 20 movements will be reserved for bespoke creations. Complementary dial and leather strap colours will be unveiled in due course.

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