he mesmerizing dial draws inspiration from the motto, “Souyou” - a coined word that is reflected in the striking contrast between blue, green, gold and red colours. “SOU ” evokes, in the outer part of the dial, the sea represented by the deep, clear blue-green hues, while ‘YOU’ , with its shades of gold and red in the centre, signifies a natural organic form symbolizing solar energy.

Created using the Urushi lacque ring technique, it requires over a thousand hours of meticulous work. This extraordinary creation incorporates raw materials such as “Urushi” (tree sap), “Kinpun” (various gold powders), “Kirigane” (cut gold sheets), and “Kirigai” (cut shell from New Zealand abalone and the great green turban).

Perfect for world travellers, this unique piece displays hours, minutes, and a central second time zone via a disc that completes a full 24-hour rotation, designed to indicate the home time. Subtly integrated into the gold motif on a red background, the second time zone pointer is easy to read at first glance. Meanwhile, the central hour hand can be easily adjusted to the local time of the destination with a simple push on the crown.

The mechanism was designed, built, fabricated, hand-finished and assembled to the highest standards by the expert artisans of the Voutilainen workshop with the utmost precision, care and passion. Technically, the calibre of the 28GML is equipped with a very large balance wheel crafted in-house, ensuring precise rate stability and accuracy within strict tolerances.

Additionally, a rare and unique balance-spring system has been used. The exterior of the spring has a typical Phillips overcoil, while the internal curve uses the little-known Grossmann curve further increasing accuracy. It is also particularly remarkable due to its two escapement wheels, which provide a direct impulse to the balance through the roller/jewel. This innovative construction improves efficiency by requiring less energy than the Swiss lever escapement and allows for notable benefits, for everyday use, such as longevity, stability and a longer power reserve.

The case back offers a captivating view of the caliber 28GML’s intricacies that is meticulously finished to the highest standards by the expert artisans of the Voutilainen workshop. The surfaces of pinions and wheels are completely flat and polished with exceptionally uniform tolerances. The main plate and bridges, made from German silver, are decorated by hand to achieve the utmost levels of surface finish. Screws and all steel parts are also finished and polished by hand.

Completing the overall design, the 39 mm timepiece in platinum features an elegant hand-sewn strap.

The Kitamura Studio, one of the world’s foremost Urushi lacquer studios, is located in Wajima, Japan. Under the guidance of Mr. Tatsuo Kitamura, it produces Urushi lacquer art that represents the pinnacle of Japanese tradition, carrying a craft that has endured for centuries into the modern era.

Each piece embodies a profound respect for preserving the soul, spirit, and cultural identity of traditional Japan, as it was expressed during the Edo period (1615-1868). Among the various Urushi lacquering techniques, such as “Maki-e” and “Raden” in true classical tradition, Kitamura particularly excels in his own original one, “Sae Maki’, which imparts a contemporary feel. This outstanding know-how uses various kinds and colours of special shells and fine gold inlay to recreate “Somada” technique - an extremely detailed, burnished maki-e art established in the 17th century but lost by the 19th century.

In addition to creating original artworks, in recent years, the studio has also devoted energy to restoring traditional items once used by Edo-period feudal lords. Crafted hundreds of years ago, they retain their pristine beauty today, thanks to their durability and the ability to be restored, even when handled directly. This superlative artistry engages the viewer on a physical level, inspiring awe for the dedication, patience, and mastery essential to their creation.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Voutilainen 28GML Souyou wristwatch

• In-house movement, two escapement wheels with direct impulse
• Design, construction, fabrication, finishing and assembly in the Voutilainen workshop
• Indications: hours, minutes and a second time zone with a 24-hour rotating disc in the center
• Movement diameter: 30mm
• Number of components: 211
• German silver main plate and bridges
• Visible wheels made from solid 18K gold, remaining wheels of the gear train made from German silver and escapement wheels made from steel
• 27 jewels
• 65 hours power reserve
• Frequency: 18,000 v.p.h, free sprung balance wheel with rose gold timing weights
• Balance diameter: 13.50mm
• Balance-spring with Phillips terminal curve and Grossmann internal curve
• Case and crown made in-house from platinum
• Case diameter: 39mm
• Dial: unique art piece created by the legendary Japanese lacquer Kitamura Studio
• Hands made from gold and blued steel
• Sapphire glasses front and back with anti-reflection treatment
• Hand-sewn black strap
• Unique piece