ouis Moinet originally designed his novel instrument to carry out celestial observations, which required precise calculations of the speed at which the stars moved. This “thirds counter” (compteur de tierces) was the first of its kind and a testament to the genius of its creator. Moreover, it was the first chronograph ever built. Louis Moinet’s brilliant creation incorporated numerous innovations, some of which would not be repeated until a century later. Today, this historic timepiece is carefully preserved in the Louis Moinet Museum in Saint-Blaise.

A closer look at Les Ateliers Louis Moinet’s new 1816 chronograph means taking a deep dive into over 200 years of history through a timepiece exhibiting a resolutely contemporary style. The DNA of Moinet’s compteur de tierces, which with its sober, functional, and, for its time, avant-garde design, emerges in every detail. The aesthetic codes of the original model have been given a totally new interpretation but one that is always in keeping with traditional haute horlogerie. Let’s explore them.

The double-gadroon case, in polished and satin-finished grade 5 titanium, measures 40.6 millimetres in diameter and is composed of 51 parts. It retains its original Directoire style semi-bassine design with a smooth case middle. Two sober pushers frame the winding crown, which is decorated with a fleur-de-lys, the emblem of Bourges, Louis Moinet’s birthplace. The elegant and timeless 1816 was made to be very comfortable on the wrist.

The slightly vaulted dial is both legible and functional. The chronograph hand is clearly visible and shares space on the dial with two totalisers — one for the hours, the other for minutes — along with a small seconds subdial.

The whole is surrounded by a minute and seconds chapter divided in increments of six, recalling the original sixtieths of a second indication.

The hand-wound mechanism includes components specific to traditional watchmaking, such as an instantaneous minute counter, a column wheel, and swan-neck regulating spring.

The grade 5 titanium bracelet integrated into the case is the very first metallic bracelet developed by Les Ateliers Louis Moinet. It was named “Project BRIDGE” by the technical department for the elegant, curvilinear shape of its wide links. This truly contemporary bracelet exhibits a singular, unclassifiable design. It was conceived as a natural extension of the case. The progression of links articulates in a natural continuity, hugging the wrist while remaining perfectly balanced. Their dimension is underscored by satin and polished finishing, creating a sculptural whole that is both fluid and ergonomic.

The whole ensemble forms a timeless haute-horlogerie timepiece. It is aimed at connoisseurs who want to wear a timepiece with strong evocative power.

The challenge when designing the 1816 was to preserve the quintessence of the original chronograph while integrating a movement that could meet all haute horlogerie standards. This entailed designing a fully integrated calibre, conceived from scratch, in collaboration with Concepto.

By the same token, the actual construction of the mechanism follows Louis Moinet’s avant-garde vision of the watch, with a distinct architecture for the movement and dial. Ever since, watchmaking has been driven by such aspects as functionality and mechanical elegance, aesthetics and legibility. For the 1816 timepiece, this is reflected in a calibre composed of 330 parts including 34 jewels. It beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and was developed exclusively for the 1816 chronograph so as to preserve the DNA of the “thirds counter,” the compteur de tierces, while adding a contemporary touch.

The absence of a plate on the back reveals the grand interplay of shaped parts, overlapping planes and bridges, concatenated cogs, and chronometric controls. The contrasts are striking: the white of the steel, the satin finish and brassy hue of the bridges, the blue of the fixing screws, and the deep red of the rubies.

Watch connoisseurs wishing to have a physical connection with their timepiece will appreciate the manual winding ritual, which ensures 48 hours of autonomy. The instantaneous minute counter, the column wheel control, and the swan-neck regulator are other elements that draw the expert eye, as they are witnesses to the authenticity, care and quality of the movement.

The instantaneous minute counter prevents reading errors.

The jumping minute counter precisely measures short intervals of time. Unlike a trailing counter, where the hand moves slowly and continuously, the jumping minute counter permits error-free reading since its hand jumps instantaneously from one gradation to the next at the sixtieth second. In other words, it displays the number of minutes elapsed directly and without scrolling. This enables time to be read off immediately. The hour counter, on the other hand, works in the traditional way, displaying the time as it passes sequentially.

First used in 1878, the column wheel is a kind of ratchet wheel with six or nine triangular teeth or columns set at right angles to each other. It turns in one direction only and smoothly coordinates the start, stop, and reset phases of the chronograph.

The swan-neck regulator is a device consisting of a spring curved around the lever, which is acted upon by a micrometre screw allowing the fine adjustment of the watch’s rate. It was invented and patented in 1867 and is still highly prized for its sleek, elegant shape.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

• CASE: Material • Polished and satin-brushed grade 5 titanium Crystal • Sapphire crystal with double-sided anti-reflective treatment Diameter • 40.6 mm Height • 14.7 mm Water-resistance • 50 metres

• DIAL: Dial Colour: rhodium • Construction: 23 parts • Finishing: bead-blasted • Markings: engraved• 10 cabochons, blackened nickel • 4 blued-steel screws • Counters Satin-brushed ring, bead-blasted centre • Flange Bead-blasted • Hands Hours and minutes: faceted and skeletonised, with luminescent material • Blued-steel chronograph hand and totaliser hands

• MOVEMENT: Manufacture Louis Moinet • Calibre LM1816 • Dimensions Diameter: 30.4 mm | height: 7.9 mm • Functions Hours | minutes | small seconds | chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour counters • Complication • Column-wheel chronograph • Type • Hand-wound mechanical • Finishing • Bridges and mainplate: sanded, 3N gold-plated, polished and bevelled Stainless steel: drawn and bevelled lines • Swan-neck regulator: black polished • Screw balance • Blued-steel mounting screws • Components 330 • Oscillations 28,800 vibrations per hour • Frequency 4 Hz • Jewels 34 • Power reserve 48 hours •

• BRACELET: Material Polished and satin-brushed grade 5 titanium