ince 2015, on the initiative of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud in the Val-de-Travers (Switzerland) has devoted itself to reviving one of the greatest names in watchmaking: Ferdinand Berthoud (1727-1807).

Guided by the same quest for precision as the master horologist, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud is celebrating its tenth anniversary this year. To mark the occasion, the manufacture presents a very limited series of the Chronomètre FB 3SPC. Platinum makes its first appearance in this collection, whose mechanical movement with a cylindrical balance-spring is also attired in new pink or black PVD colours.

The philosophy driving Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud since the launch of its first collection in 2015 is far more than merely a tribute to the work of the eponymous master-watchmaker. It transposes into contemporary watchmaking language the quest for excellence and precision of the man who was appointed Master Clockmaker-Mechanic by appointment to the (French) King and Navy.

No fewer than nine exclusive calibres and three collections have been presented since 2015: Chronomètre FB 1 with its now iconic octagonal case; the FB 2 collection whose case design reinterprets the shape of marine clocks; as well as the FB 3, which is inspired by the longitude watches designed by Ferdinand Berthoud. To mark the tenth anniversary of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, the iconic FB 3SPC collection with a cylindrical balance-spring has been enriched with a very limited edition of platinum timepieces that can also be set with precious stones.

Making a platinum case as complex as that of the FB 3 collection demonstrates the maison’s exceptional expertise. More than 30 hours of work are required to machine and finish this 57-part case. Polishing platinum is a particularly delicate operation, requiring more effort and patience than for other precious metals. Platinum is a very dense yet extremely malleable metal. Only the most experienced polishers are able to achieve the desired brilliance meeting the Ferdinand Berthoud quality criteria. Unlike gold, platinum cannot be polished by pressing very hard on the metal with a polishing brush. Doing so creates waves or a dull haze on the surface, due to the molecular structure of this noble material whose inalterable nature makes it much sought after by discerning collectors.

The FB 3SPC collection is the only wristwatch with a variable-inertia balance and a cylindrical balance spring, chronometer-certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) and awarded the Chronometry prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2023.

Its mechanical movement is based on a cylindrical balance-spring, an extremely rare horological speciality on which Ferdinand Berthoud himself had worked. It is the result of more than three years of research and development. Positioned at 9 o’clock, the three main escapement components – namely the balance, pallet-lever and escape-wheel – are individualised, distinct and proeminent. This space dedicated to the regulating organ enables one to appreciate how it functions and to see the cylindrical balance-spring beating throughout the three days of the power reserve, including through a large water-resistant porthole in the case middle at 9 o’clock.

Thanks to its unique three-dimensional architecture with the mainplate positioned at the heart of the movement and the bridges framing it, Calibre FB-SPC is fully visible through the case-back as well as on the dial side. The way it is decorated thus determines the character of the timepiece, as do the two new pink and black PVD-treated versions – produced in 20-piece limited series – that are joining the FB 3 collection.

The FB 3SPC.3 model features a finely sandblasted salmon pink movement, a velvet-finished silver-toned brass inner bezel ring and dial, along with facetted and diamond-polished blue CVD-treated 18-carat gold hands. The regulating organ bridges visible at 9 o’clock are made of straight-grained natural nickel silver.

Meanwhile, Reference FB 3SPC.3-1 is equipped with a black PVD-treated sandblasted movement, a black-varnished inner bezel and dial, along with 18-carat white gold hands. To accentuate the intensity of the movement’s black hues, the regulating organ bridges and the barrel drum are treated with black rhodium, while the gear trains are white rhodium-treated.  Each of these two references will also be available in a diamond-set version, produced in a five-piece limited edition. Benefiting from Chopard’s expertise, the case, crown and buckle have been subtly reworked to accommodate diamonds of exceptional quality and cut. Each stone is then set with the utmost care to obtain a particularly elegant setting of 77 diamonds totalling 4.02 carats: 48 baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel, 10 on the pin buckle and 18 on the crown. The latter is also enhanced with a briolette-cut diamond.

 Traditionally accompanied by a hand-sewn natural alligator leather strap and an 18 mm pin buckle, the FB 3SPC collection can now on request be equipped with a new 18 mm folding clasp. The latter features two blades, with a safety catch on the cap and a fine-adjustment mechanism enabling +/- 3 mm length modifications to fit the exact wrist size.

Already present on the folding clasps of the FB 1 and FB 2 collections, this mechanism equips the new version appearing with the Chronomètre FB 3SPC, whose design has been subtly reworked to adapt perfectly to the curve of the FB 3 case. This new clasp is available on request in 5N 18-carat rose gold or in 18-carat non-rhodium-treated white gold.

Through these new variations, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud reaffirms its desire to perpetuate the FB 3 collection, which requires the greatest watchmaking expertise, in order to produce and adjust around 30 chronometer-certified movements of this type each year. This launch also marks the start of celebrations for Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, which is celebrating its tenth anniversary in 2025.