here are certain houses where every decision, every rupture, carries the awareness that it may still be examined and judged decades from now. Where responsibility feels unusually profound - the kind that becomes part of a much longer story. Where the collective challenge transcends the individual. With its singular blend of Parisian culture and global openness, Cartier is one of those maisons.
And so, at the 2026 edition of Watches and Wonders, it was not a single executive who met with the international press, but a duo entrusted with preserving that continuity - extending the radiance of the jeweller of kings and king of jewellers into the decades ahead. Sometimes daring, too, to challenge that heritage, reinterpret it and reinvent it.
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- Louis Ferla, CEO of Cartier
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- Pierre Rainero, Cartier’s Director of Image, Style and Heritage
Louis Ferla knows Cartier from within, having spent eleven years leading several of its international divisions, including China, before successfully taking the helm of Vacheron Constantin, also within the Richemont group. In 2024, he returned to Cartier as CEO. Beside him stands the “guardian of the temple”, Pierre Rainero, who has worked alongside a record number of Cartier leaders over more than four decades within the Parisian house. His official title: Director of Image, Style and Heritage.
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- Launched in 2002, the Roadster is making a major return to the watchmaking stage. Among its distinctive design codes drawn from the world of automotive bodywork are a dial inspired by speedometers, an ogive-shaped crown, a cyclops date magnifier reminiscent of a headlamp, as well as rivets, visible screws and an aerodynamic silhouette.
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- The Roadster is available in three new versions - gold, steel-and-gold, and steel - and in two sizes, medium and large. The large models are powered by the self-winding 1847 MC mechanical movement, while the medium models feature the automatic 1899 MC calibre.
The Cartier watch generating the most discussion this year is the Roadster - naturally, a polarising proposition. Originally introduced in the 2000s, it returns in 2026 as another reinterpretation drawn from Cartier’s immense heritage. Over the past decade, the house has made this strategy one of the pillars of its strength. Cartier, the master of form, is defending its territory. Because in uncertain times, icons reassure. The conversation begins…
Europa Star: Cartier’s catalogue is exceptionally broad, and reinterpretation has been central to your strategy over the past decade. Concretely, how do you decide, year after year, which models you want to revisit? What framework do you use to determine when the timing feels right for a reinterpretation?
Pierre Rainero: It is a combination of intuition and reflection. Take the Roadster, for example: we look at its aesthetics, its resonance today, the territory it occupies. It offers an interesting alternative to the Santos, with a character that is both sporty and elegant. We then ask ourselves whether the timing is right and whether we can refine certain details according to our current standards. But there is no formula, no rigid analytical framework.
Louis Ferla: We listen very closely to the market, to clients, and also to the vintage market. In recent years, we noticed renewed interest in the Roadster. So it felt like the right moment to bring it back to life, revisiting and refining the design. A decision is never triggered by a single signal, but by a convergence of signals.
At the heart of Cartier’s DNA, we are jewellers and watchmakers, but we are also deeply attuned to the market and generally strive to stay ahead of demand. That is how some creations become enduring references. Today, a large part of our offering is inspired by this vintage universe, and the Roadster naturally complements the Santos within the sporty category.
“Over the past few years, we noticed renewed interest in the Roadster. So it felt like the right moment to bring it back to life, revisiting and refining the design. A decision is never triggered by a single signal, but by a convergence of signals.”
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- Myst de Cartier, a new shaped watch with a singular aesthetic. Devoid of any clasp, the creation evokes a trompe-l’œil bracelet. It embodies the Maison’s founding connection between jewellery and watchmaking.
With this strategy, how do you remain contemporary without slipping into nostalgia?
Louis Ferla: We always ask ourselves one simple question with every product: how can we make it better? We want to create pieces that deliver genuine value. Innovation within tradition is essential. We also ask whether a creation will still carry meaning in 20 or 30 years.
We take a very long-term view. And to achieve this, we work collectively. At Cartier, more than 120 métiers coexist: some approach things technically, others creatively or commercially. All of these perspectives are brought into dialogue.
Pierre Rainero: In the case of the Roadster, genuine audacity is part of its original inspiration.
Alongside these reinterpretations, is there still room for entirely new designs at Cartier?
Pierre Rainero: Of course, but we are equally pleased that Cartier’s historic designs remain present and compelling today.
Louis Ferla: With such a rich heritage, it is sometimes more meaningful to enrich what already exists than to create something entirely new. That does not prevent the emergence of new designs, such as the Ballon Bleu 20 years ago. But when a product is thoughtfully developed, it can become an enduring classic over time. Moreover, in an uncertain environment - inflation, rising gold prices, geopolitical crises - clients naturally gravitate towards safe values, towards established icons.
That said, the Myst unveiled this year opens a new aesthetic direction - it comes closer to jewellery than to watchmaking. The same is true of Grain de Café. We do not decide ourselves whether a product becomes iconic: some pieces were not immediate successes and took decades to be recognised, especially after refined re-editions. The Baignoire is a perfect example - an ideal synthesis of watch and jewel.
Pierre Rainero: With its form rooted in our jeweller identity, the Myst reflects the Cartier spirit: a creative freedom that goes beyond pure technicality, allowing Cartier to turn visions into objects.
“We also ask whether a creation will still carry meaning in 20 or 30 years.”
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- The Baignoire watch first appeared in 1958 and was officially given its name in 1973. In 2023, Cartier introduced a new version featuring a bangle bracelet. This year, the Maison reinterprets the Baignoire bangle model with a Clou de Paris motif.
Today, Cartier has transcended its status as a brand. How do you carry the weight of such powerful cultural influence?
Pierre Rainero: It is a profound responsibility. Cartier is recognised worldwide for its creative dimension. We create with longevity in mind, designing pieces meant to endure through time. Originality is essential, and we place extremely high demands on creation. When we organised our exhibition at the Grand Palais in 2013–2014, Jacques Cartier’s son wrote to me saying that his ancestors were looking at our work with pride “from above”. I was deeply moved by that.
Louis Ferla: Our responsibility also extends to the transmission of savoir-faire. We train young artisans, preserve métiers d’art, and work on our environmental and social impact. This year, for example, our Watches and Wonders stand received ISO certification. Cartier is more than a commercial enterprise: it is a human adventure, a distinctive vision. Employees are deeply committed; they do not work here simply for a salary. I would even dare say that nobody is indifferent to Cartier, whether inside or outside the house.
How do you define your aesthetic? What constitutes a beautiful object according to Cartier?
Pierre Rainero: It is an original object, inspired, imbued with spirit - one might say “witty”. Cartier succeeded, for example, in establishing the rectangular watch on the wrist - a bold gesture. But beyond aesthetics, there is a particular relationship between the object and the person wearing it: a matter of ergonomics, fluidity, almost second nature. Elegance lies in the way an object rests on the body. In that sense, form is essential. Our approach is shaped by our jewellery culture: as a maison defined by form, we conceive the watch as an object that naturally belongs on the body.
Louis Ferla: Our creations are deeply emotional. Many clients associate Cartier with key moments in their lives - a birth, a wedding, an achievement. There is a very special relationship with the house. I have never seen anyone disappointed to receive a red Cartier box (smiles). In a turbulent market, the response from clients remains extremely positive. When you have a winning formula, there is no need to change it: straying too far from your core identity means risking losing yourself.
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- Faithful to the pioneering spirit of the original model created in 1904 for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, the new large Santos-Dumont by Cartier (43.5 x 31.4 mm), powered by the hand-wound Manufacture 430 MC mechanical movement, retains the same signature codes: Roman numerals, visible screws, a beaded crown and blue cabochon.
Are younger generations equally sensitive to this territory you defend?
Pierre Rainero: Absolutely. Younger generations know Cartier very well - its history, its different eras. They seek originality, not simply the latest trend. On our side, there is pride in seeing older forms remain relevant. The 1970s and 1980s are gaining visibility and resonate strongly with younger audiences.
Louis Ferla: They are extremely informed, highly demanding, and make thoughtful choices. They understand cycles and recognise fundamental values. Younger generations know exactly what they want.
“Elegance lies in the way an object rests on the body. In that sense, form is essential.”
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- Each year, Cartier Privé offers a contemporary interpretation of an emblematic and exclusive shape from Cartier’s watchmaking heritage. Since 2015, this collectors’ rendezvous has successively revisited the Crash, Tank Cintrée, Tonneau, Tank Asymétrique, Cloche, Tank Chinoise, Tank Normale, Tortue and Tank à Guichets.
Even if this trend is widespread, Cartier naturally works with smaller dimensions. And we are seeing the return of small mechanical movements across the industry. Is this also a strategic direction for you?
Louis Ferla: Our priority is always to choose the movement best suited to each watch. Personally, I must admit that my perspective on quartz has evolved, because there are now highly reliable quartz movements with ten-year autonomy that can make perfect sense for certain uses. We choose freely between quartz, manual mechanical and automatic movements.
“Personally, I must admit that my perspective on quartz has evolved, because there are now highly reliable quartz movements with ten-year autonomy that can make perfect sense for certain uses.”
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- For its 10th opus, Cartier Privé celebrates three of the most emblematic shapes from previous editions: the Tank Normale, the Tortue Monopusher Chronograph and the Crash Skeleton. This exceptional triptych pays tribute to the Maison’s signature material, platinum, paired with the colour burgundy.
You mentioned the current international climate. Pricing is a sensitive issue. Swiss watchmaking has already moved significantly upmarket. How do you approach this question?
Louis Ferla: We are very careful to maintain price coherence. Many brands have raised prices to the point of creating a disconnect with the market. Gold prices have risen sharply in recent years, but we have not doubled our prices. It is essential to preserve different entry points within our offering.
I would add that through the Cartier Tradition programme, we are active both in the new market and in the collectors’ market. Cartier also offers leather goods, eyewear, fragrances, lighters… We continue to develop these categories while remaining faithful to our foundations. I love this quote: ‘We enjoy shade today because someone planted a tree long ago.’ It reflects a sense of responsibility towards those who came before us, as well as towards future generations.


