he creation of a watchmaking division at LVMH, with Frédéric Arnault at its head, is on the way to achieving closer coordination between the constituent brands and an industrial vision common to all. With TAG Heuer confirmed in its capacity as the entity’s “most universal” brand, symbolised by the high visibility it has gained as Formula 1 sponsor, and Hublot set to reprise its role as a pioneer of mechanical exuberance, Zenith is to embody the stability and industrial credibility of the edifice as a movement manufacturer – a pillar it will build with investment from the group while continuing to produce its own models.

Since designing and perfecting movements is a matter not of months, but of years or even decades, the Le Locle-based brand, now celebrating its 160^th anniversary, has numerous aces to play, starting with its expertise in high-frequency horology. Its position as a manufacturer for other companies is far from new: during its long history, its El Primero chronograph – the laureate of no fewer than 230 chronometry prizes – has equipped numerous brands, the first and foremost of these being Rolex. Today Zenith continues this role by supplying it to LVMH Group companies Dior and Hublot.

“Why not?”

But what was once a marginal part of production is now a strategic priority for the group. Firstly, it is associated with a certain credibility and distinction in the minds of end clients who need more than a baseline of standard movements from suppliers such as Sellita. Secondly, counting on some of the most highly reputed but third-party suppliers is no guarantee of independence – the case of Vaucher Manufacture, a buyout of which has long been a subject of speculation, is at the forefront of everyone’s minds. So this is a strategic change of dimension.

Fitted with the high-frequency El Primero 3600 (5 Hz or 36,000 vibrations per hour), enabling it to display tenths of a second, the Chronomaster Sport has established itself as one of Zenith’s flagship models. Made in 18-carat white gold, this luxurious, colourful iteration of the Rainbow echoes the rose-gold model unveiled last year, adorned with baguette-cut diamonds, spinels and sapphires.

“Zenith is a very rare case: that of a manufacture which has remained within its original walls for 160 years despite all the changes in the industry, wars and industrial upheavals. Our foundations are built on this know-how and transmission of it, our heritage and our soul are in this building and this manufacture, which is now going erect a new pillar, that of supplier to other brands,” says an emphatic Benoit de Clerck, CEO of Zenith for just over a year now and currently in charge of rolling out the operations resulting from this revised group strategy.

Benoit de Clerck, Zenith’s CEO

Creating this “common base”, which will kick off with the design of a three-hand movement to act as a development platform for the watch division, is the priority response to the needs of the group’s other brands. But supplying third parties outside the group is not out of the question (“Why not!”). This first common movement is set to be released within two years.

Two lines of strategy

But this planned expansion of Zenith from industrial to service arm of the group should not obscure the work accomplished on the desirability of an entity long viewed as precious, but discreet. Especially on the occasion of its 160th anniversary. One model perhaps more than any other symbolises this fundamental work that began under Julien Tornare (now at the helm of Hublot) and continues under Benoit de Clerck: the Chronomaster Sport, positioned in the casual-chic segment so dear to the brand and presented early this year with a bold new, rainbow bezel.

The Chronomaster line is the brand’s entry level, starting at CHF 7,500, CHF 11,000 for the Sport version, and is a strategic series in Zenith’s commercial structure. But the average price “has doubled, to CHF 14,000, during the last decade,” thanks to the rising popularity of the avant-garde Defy line. This is the brand’s most contemporary face and its Skyline chronograph version “rapidly made it into the top ten best-sellers”. Both based on successive developments of El Primero, these two lines alone, Defy and Chronomaster, represent more than two-thirds of Zenith’s sales.

Skeletonisation lets you fully admire the Defy Skyline Chronograph calibre and offers a very contemporary view of the El Primero movement.

This year, the Defy is entirely skeletonised, including the movement, here again showing the brand’s expertise when it comes to calibres. “You see lots of open-heart dials,” notes Benoit de Clerck, “but there are relatively few truly skeletonised chronographs on the market. In this model, we play both with the frequencies of the movement and those of the colours. It’s an engineering feat, we’re very proud of our watchmakers.”

Building on its heritage, Zenith is also continuing its Icon programme of restored vintage models. Developing the movement supply business will, furthermore, provide additional commercial security for the brand, sales of which are “balanced” between Asia, EMEA and America. “By putting the accent on movements, we stay true to our innermost soul. Like a tree that has been growing in its field for 160 years and has never been uprooted.”