n anecdote to start: when I joined Europa Star in 2014, I quickly immersed myself into the archives of our family-run publication. Throughout the 2000s, one brand kept appearing in articles and advertisements. Who was this Gerald Charles? Curious, I dug deeper and discovered it was the final project of Gérald Charles Genta.

My father talked to me about it, so did my uncle, as they both closely followed this project. That’s why it was an even greater pleasure to see Gerald Charles reemerge in the watchmaking world from 2019, driven by Federico Ziviani. The “Maestro” of watch design, having founded the brand in 2000, had sold it to the Ziviani family three years later, while continuing his creative work for Gerald Charles until his passing in 2011.

©Archives Europa Star

The brand’s introduction in 2000 in Europa Star.

©Archives Europa Star

The Maestro’s final chapter

Recently honoured with the ‘Forbes Under 30’ award in Switzerland, Federico Ziviani is the son of Franco Ziviani, the longtime CEO of Audemars Piguet in Italy, and the nephew of Giampaolo Ziviani.

Federico Ziviani took over the leadership of Gerald Charles in 2019.

He explains the reasons behind this return to the spotlight, “After 2011, my uncle continued the brand by focusing exclusively on very high-end bespoke orders, which is why it was no longer visible to the general public. But the brand never stopped operating, and when I arrived, I felt it was time to reopen it to a broader audience.”

An advertisement from 2001.

©Archives Europa Star

Gérald Genta’s reputation has never been higher than it is in recent years: his most famous designs, the Royal Oak by Audemars Piguet and the Nautilus by Patek Philippe, have reached stratospheric prices. However, the prolific designer’s legacy is vast and has shaped the development of numerous brands, from the Polerouter by Universal Genève, launched in 1954 (just revived, ed.), to Omega’s Constellation, IWC’s Ingenieur (recently reinterpreted), and many more.

Giampaolo, Franco, and Federico Ziviani represent two generations of entrepreneurs deeply involved in watchmaking.

Such is the extent of his influence that defining the exact contours of his legacy can sometimes be difficult, especially as he also founded his own brand, Gérald Genta (also just relaunched). But for Federico Ziviani, things are very clear: “Genta was like Picasso. He had several periods, and we position ourselves on his work from 2000 to 2011, his final creative phase. But I believe it is positive for the entire ‘Genta community’ that all his creative periods are still so actively reinterpreted today. We wish success to everyone; that is our mindset.”

“Genta was like Picasso. He had several periods, and we position ourselves on his work from 2000 to 2011, his final creative phase.”

On the collectors’ radar

More than a brand leader, Gérald Charles Genta was above all a “force of creative expression”, coming up with new designs every day. Ziviani shares, “We continue to uncover designs and, in doing so, expand his story. There were hundreds of pieces created exclusively for private collectors, as well as hundreds of sketches that have yet to be produced and are therefore still usable.”

The contemporary Gerald Charles collection is built around two main lines, featuring a highly distinctive asymmetrical case design, inspired by Roman Baroque architecture.

The Maestro case, designed by Gérald Charles Genta, is inspired by Roman Baroque architecture.

The Maestro, conceived by Genta in 2005 with its iconic ‘smile’ at 6 o’clock, is the watch that marks the brand’s return to the scene. It has been released in several variations: Ultra-Thin, GC Sport, Chronograph, Tourbillon, as well as skeletonised and gem-set interpretations.

The Maestro 3.0 Chronograph is inspired by an original design by Gérald Charles Genta, as is the rubber strap featuring the Clou de Paris pattern. Steel case, sunburst dial, and vulcanized rubber strap. Automatic chronograph GCA 3022/12, with a thickness of 6.07 mm.

The GC Sport is a sport-chic variant based on the Maestro. 39 mm case in polished grade 5 titanium, total weight of 50 grams and 8 mm thick. The watch’s crown has been moved from the right to the left side of the case for better ergonomics.

Gem-set version of the Maestro GC Sport with sapphires.

Gem-set version of the Maestro Skeleton 8.0.

The Maestro 9.0 Roman Tourbillon stands out with its impressive hand-hammered gold dial.

The Masterlink, on the other hand, is a sporty-chic watch with an integrated bracelet, perfectly in tune with current trends. It is inspired by a model designed by Genta in 2007, the Sarawak, and is instantly recognisable.

The Maestro is designed around a rectangle, while the Masterlink is based on a square. Crafted from steel with dimensions of 38 x 38 mm and a thickness of less than 8 mm, the Masterlink is Gerald Charles’ first serially produced watch with an integrated bracelet. To strengthen the verticality of the design, the central link is brushed in the direction of the bracelet, as well as in the same direction as the dial pattern, vertically with the Côtes de Genève motif.

In 2007, Gérald Charles Genta designed a unique piece with an asymmetrical integrated bracelet, valued at over a million euros and totaling more than 15 carats of precious stones, intended for the royal family of Sarawak, a Malaysian state.

The brand has set up its workshops in the heart of Geneva, under the rooftops of Rue du Mont-Blanc, and has developed several proprietary movements. Now represented by a highly selective network of retailers worldwide, from Arije to Seddiqi, it has firmly reestablished itself at the centre of the watchmaking circle, arriving at the right time with the right products. Tellingly, during inevitable comparisons and references, some would naturally mention Gerald Charles when discovering Patek Philippe’s much-discussed Cubitus. A clear sign of the brand’s renewed relevance in the watchmaking conversation!

“There were hundreds of pieces created exclusively for private collectors, as well as hundreds of sketches that have yet to be produced and are therefore still usable.”

Collaboration with Ducati

The Geneva workshop is dedicated to complications and houses the technical office, while production relies on a network of partners. Annual production output today is approximately 1,500 watches, with prices starting at 14,800 CHF for the Maestro Ultra-Thin 2.0 and an average price of 30,000 CHF. “Many new collectors entered the watch world when we began reaching a broader audience in 2019. The pool of potential clients has grown,” says Ziviani. For him, the main point in opening up the brand is to “create value for collectors”.

One of the most recent developments at Gerald Charles, which boasts an extensive network of ambassadors worldwide, has been the collaboration with motorcycle brand Ducati. The two brands, sharing a strong Italian DNA, teamed up to design the Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30º Anniversario 916, limited to 250 pieces. “Before even discussing numbers, the conversation immediately turned to the creative subject, very naturally,” says Ziviani. “They were looking for a watchmaking partner to celebrate the 30^th anniversary of their iconic 1994 Ducati 916. These are the Maestros of motorcycles, with their legendary designer Massimo Tamburini – the parallel was evident, and we understood each other right away!”

In tribute to the 30th anniversary of the iconic Ducati 916, Gerald Charles has partnered with the Italian motorcycle manufacturer to present the Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30° Anniversario 916. On this occasion, the brand has reintroduced the jumping hour, one of the most emblematic complications of Mr. Genta’s creations.

The anniversary model marks the first use of Gérald Charles Genta’s jumping hours complication in over 13 years. It is both the brand’s first skeleton jumping-hour watch and the first to display time on a motorcycle wheel. A central wheel has been added to the centre of the case, as a nod to the original wheel rim of the Ducati 916. “We keep our promise to introduce a new complication each year with this reinterpretation of the jumping hours,” says Ziviani in closing. “And the road ahead is clearly laid out for us.”

“We keep our promise to introduce a new complication each year.”