Independent watchmakers

Independent watchmakers

Watch Q&A with... Dan Niederer – SevenFriday

By Serge Maillard

June 2023

“Innovation in additive manufacturing/3D printing, with a new generation of products”

Watch Q&A with... Dan Niederer – SevenFriday

By Serge Maillard

June 2023

Watch Q&A with... Dan Niederer – SevenFriday

“Innovation in additive manufacturing/3D printing, with a new generation of products”

W

e recently interviewed a broad selection of managers, active in a variety of segments, to help us identify the major trends within the watch industry.

Our Q&A with Dan Niederer – SevenFriday.

Europa Star: What are your strategic priorities for 2023?

Dan Niederer: 2023 is all about maintaining the key principles that have defined our brand strategy and DNA for years. Innovation, quality and loyalty are cornerstones of the SevenFriday spirit, permeating product development, communication and every aspect of our universe.


Dan Niederer

Which new products or lines will be your main focus this year?

Alongside a whole range of product launches this year, we’ll be continuing our journey in additive manufacturing/3D printing, with the next generation of products called the Free-D B and the launch of a collaboration with an up-and-coming fashion brand, which we’ve been working on for years. We thrive on challenges and the seemingly impossible, and we love to work with partners and friends from all cultures and backgrounds. These two projects certainly fit that profile.


SevenFriday Free-D Green

The emergence of the secondary market represents a major new development. Are you taking any steps to build a presence in preowned?

We realised many years ago that the consumer has hardly any protection in the second-hand watch market. Even today, experienced watchmakers agree that some fakes are virtually impossible for a buyer to detect. For this reason, since 2016 we have inserted NFC chips into all our watch heads, which allows customers to verify all our products via the SevenFriday app. We never really understood the relevance of a certificate of origin that isn’t connected to the physical product, and we believe we have an obligation to protect our customers’ interests. In addition, we are looking into the possibility of facilitating second-hand market transactions within the secure and regulated environment of the SevenFriday app.

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Watch Q&A with... Dan Niederer – SevenFriday

WATCH FILES
Independent watchmakers

Byrne: changing faces

Byrne: changing faces

Despite the many newcomers swelling the ranks of watch brands each year, genuinely innovative concepts are few and far between. Launched in 2022, indie (...)

Formex: extreme shapes meet sport-chic

Formex: extreme shapes meet sport-chic

Now managed by a family-owned group specialising in watch part production, Formex has enjoyed a remarkable resurgence since its Kickstarter relaunch in (...)

Raúl Pagès: when the tortoise becomes a hare

Raúl Pagès: when the tortoise becomes a hare

Raúl Pagès, the overjoyed recipient of the Louis Vuitton prize designed to encourage independent watchmakers, has pursued a horological career path of (...)

“We're bursting with ideas for new Ming models”

“We’re bursting with ideas for new Ming models”

Q&A

With its highly original design language, Ming, a watch brand based in both Malaysia and Switzerland, is one of the new independent names that have seen (...)

In Geneva, a new space for artisans of the watch industry

In Geneva, a new space for artisans of the watch industry

Under the name of Watchmakers United, a new arcade on the shores of Lake Geneva hosts independent watchmakers from Cédric Johner to John-Mikaël Flaux, Shona (...)

Urwerk: reflections on the nature of time

Urwerk: reflections on the nature of time

When the Urwerk brand was born back in 1997, it took a certain amount of idealism on the part of its founders to offer an alternative approach to (...)

Louis Moinet Cosmopolis: the watch that fell to Earth

Louis Moinet Cosmopolis: the watch that fell to Earth

Jean-Marie Schaller, owner and creative director of Louis Moinet, has presented a highly symbolic timepiece. Hours are shown not by markers but by (...)

Titoni: looking beyond China

Titoni: looking beyond China

INTERVIEW

The independent brand from Grenchen, whose growth going back to the 1950s has been driven by China, is now looking to expand in Europe. We spoke to co-CEO (...)

Bovet 1822: a singular brand

Since 2001, Bovet’s legacy of mechanical excellence combined with artistic refinement has been in the care of Pascal Raffy. Intact after two centuries – the (...)

Greubel Forsey: onwards and upwards

Greubel Forsey: onwards and upwards

Greubel Forsey, which turns 20 next year, is expanding in multiple ways. The brand is doubling the size of its Atelier, releasing numerous new models, (...)

Trilobe: a movement to liberate time

Trilobe: a movement to liberate time

The Parisian brand celebrates its fifth anniversary at the end of the year and in that short time has caused quite a sensation. Here’s the story of a watch (...)

XRby: the magic potions of dial-maker Xavier Rousset

XRby: the magic potions of dial-maker Xavier Rousset

On October 1st, 2020, the day his brand XRby was launched, Xavier Rousset crossed the Rubicon. This micromechanical engineer from a lineage of dial-makers (...)

Norqain: fast track to growth

Norqain: fast track to growth

Launched barely five years ago, the outdoor-focused brand has its watches in the windows of the most prestigious retailers. Behind Norqain is an (...)

Armin Strom returns to its first in-house watch

Armin Strom returns to its first in-house watch

Carrying on the “transparent mechanics” concept of the eponymous watchmaker, the brand launched by childhood friends Serge Michel and Claude Greisler has (...)

Zannetti: Italian art and craft applied to watchmaking

Zannetti: Italian art and craft applied to watchmaking

For 40 years, the Roman workshop has patiently delivered a profusion of designs in complete independence, with an emphasis on craftsmanship and (...)

Czapek set to launch a fifth collection

Czapek set to launch a fifth collection

A name brought back to life less than a decade ago, Czapek subscribes to a policy of managed growth in a buoyant market. The launch of the Antarctique (...)

Kross Studio: the mechanics of resilience

Kross Studio: the mechanics of resilience

Set up during the pandemic by the former team at RJ Watches, the Swiss design studio has multiple strings to its bow as an in-demand contractor and a (...)

Watch Q&A with... Oliver Ebstein – Chronoswiss

Watch Q&A with... Oliver Ebstein – Chronoswiss

“Reviving an icon from the past for our 40th anniversary”

Watch Q&A with... Mario Peserico – Eberhard & Co.

Watch Q&A with... Mario Peserico – Eberhard & Co.

“Strengthening our relations with retailers: our policy is to sell only through them”

Watch Q&A with... Stéphane Waser – Maurice Lacroix

Watch Q&A with... Stéphane Waser – Maurice Lacroix

“Continue to spread the word: we still haven’t reached everybody”

Watch Q&A with... Christophe Musy – Mauron Musy

Watch Q&A with... Christophe Musy – Mauron Musy

“Sales are increasing and our new factory is coming”

Watch Q&A with... Coralie Charriol – Charriol

Watch Q&A with... Coralie Charriol – Charriol

“Being one of the only female leaders in this space gives me a differentiating edge”

Watch Q&A with... Xavier De Roquemaurel – Czapek & Cie

Watch Q&A with... Xavier De Roquemaurel – Czapek & Cie

“Keep up the pace of production with horizontal manufacturing and in-house capabilities”

Rudis Sylva: Watchmaking with family and friends

Rudis Sylva: Watchmaking with family and friends

After a career with a number of big watch brands, Jacky Epitaux chose the path of independence, cofounding Rudis Sylva in 2006. The brand is named after (...)

Morteau, home of watchmaking's new wave

Morteau, home of watchmaking’s new wave

When meeting the new generation of young independent watchmakers, one name came up time and again: Morteau. Specifically, the watchmaking programme at Lycée (...)

Olivier Mory: industrial methods meet fine watchmaking

Olivier Mory: industrial methods meet fine watchmaking

Olivier Mory was thirteen when he fell in love… with watchmaking. Fortunately the feeling was mutual and the two have been together ever since! What makes (...)

Shona Taine: “That's what I want to do!”

Shona Taine: “That’s what I want to do!”

Remember the name! Shona Taine is one of the too few women independent watchmakers. At just 25, she has already accrued impressive technical skills and a (...)

Sylvain Pinaud: the origins of Origine

Sylvain Pinaud: the origins of Origine

At the last ever Baselworld, in 2019, we had the good fortune to meet Sylvain Pinaud, who was showing his Chronographe Monopoussoir Artisanal – at that time (...)

Julien Tixier: independent but not isolated

Julien Tixier: independent but not isolated

At just turned 30, Julien Tixier is considered to be one of the most gifted watchmakers of his generation; something he recently demonstrated with the (...)

Luc Monnet: freedom and sharing

Luc Monnet: freedom and sharing

The Zen aphorism that “there is no goal at the end of the path, the path is the goal” could easily apply to Luc Monnet, a watchmaker, specialist in (...)

Portraits of a new wave

Portraits of a new wave

REPORT

A new wave is coming to watchmaking. It’s not a tsunami and it won’t change the face of the industry, but it will have an effect. These are a new generation (...)

New waves

New waves

EDITORIAL

In our latest issue we offer a series of portraits of some of these new-generation artisans, who will certainly make some waves. You’ll enjoy reading about (...)

Hervé Schlüchter's existential watchmaking

Hervé Schlüchter’s existential watchmaking

PORTRAIT

As independent watchmaking continues to make its mark, a new workshop – that of Hervé Schlüchter in Biel/Bienne – creates classically inspired watches with a (...)

BA111OD gets to grips with the chronograph

BA111OD gets to grips with the chronograph

INTERVIEW

On 11 October 2022, three years after launching his own watch with the sole aim of proving that a gap existed in the traditional business model by (...)

Doxa: the spectacular comeback

Doxa: the spectacular comeback

STRATEGY

The historic specialist in diving watches saw its desirability increase tenfold in the midst of the pandemic. The Swiss family-owned brand has just (...)

Czapek and the Antarctique success story

Czapek and the Antarctique success story

Independent watchmaker Czapek has decided to suspend orders for its flagship model, the Antarctique, for a year. The move is intended to help the brand (...)

Kari Voutilainen and Tatsuo Kitamura: a meeting of minds

Kari Voutilainen and Tatsuo Kitamura: a meeting of minds

COVER STORY

This year, Kari Voutilainen celebrates 20 years of independent creation by joining forces with his Japanese “soulmate”, Tatsuo Kitamura, an expert in the (...)

David Candaux: The price of independence

David Candaux: The price of independence

PORTRAIT

We are in Le Solliat, in the Joux Valley, two hundred metres from Philippe Dufour’s workshop and a short distance, as the crow flies, from the great (...)

Svend Andersen: Chance and necessity

Svend Andersen: Chance and necessity

PORTRAIT

Svend Andersen, the co-founder of the AHCI, has played an important role, not only as a master watchmaker but also by welcoming a whole generation of young (...)

Vianney Halter: A free agent

Vianney Halter: A free agent

PORTRAIT

A more endearing man than Vianney Halter would be hard to find. The man – or kid, you might be tempted to say, since he has never succeeded in shaking off (...)

Rexhep Rexhepi: In pursuit of authenticity

Rexhep Rexhepi: In pursuit of authenticity

PORTRAIT

At the heart of Geneva’s historic city centre, the windows of Rexhep Rexhepi’s workshop – Akrivia – open directly onto the street, and it is no rare occurrence (...)

Ludovic Ballouard: The accidental philosopher

Ludovic Ballouard: The accidental philosopher

PORTRAIT

“At the moment, I’m in demand. I’ve never worked so hard, to the point that I’m scared the coronavirus is going to stop! I’m getting more and more requests, (...)

Denis Flageollet: Materials, it all starts with the materials

Denis Flageollet: Materials, it all starts with the materials

PORTRAIT

Just above the Sainte-Croix Pass and the high-perched abode of Denis Flageollet, the watchmaker behind the De Bethune trademark, you will also find the (...)

Lives and lessons of master watchmakers

Lives and lessons of master watchmakers

REPORT

In these complex times, how are the independent master watchmakers faring? Have they suffered or prospered as they traversed the pandemic? How do they see (...)

Daniel Roth: the rough road of a pioneer

Daniel Roth: the rough road of a pioneer

PORTRAIT

Daniel Roth? A lovely man! And a master among master watchmakers. But despite that, humble, smiling and considerate. He lost everything, including his own (...)

Kari Voutilainen at the pinnacle

Kari Voutilainen at the pinnacle

PORTRAIT

Finnish master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen has come a very long way from southern Lapland, where he was born and raised, to the vertiginous eyrie known as (...)

Kross Studio crafts a Star Wars set (including a tourbillon)

Kross Studio crafts a Star Wars set (including a tourbillon)

COLLABORATION

A few months after its launch and a first series of table clocks on the theme of Batman, the Swiss start-up Kross Studio has announced an official (...)

Unveiling the new face of Louis Erard

Unveiling the new face of Louis Erard

STRATEGIES

Alain Spinedi, the boss of Louis Erard, is known as a tireless fighter in the now sparse ranks of manufacturers of affordable, high-quality mechanical (...)

Andersen Genève: 40 years of creative independence

Andersen Genève: 40 years of creative independence

RETROSPECTIVE

In 2020, Andersen Genève launches a new jumping hours watch to celebrate its 40th anniversary. Thanks to our archives, we dive into the extraordinary career (...)

Stephen Forsey: “There's a risk of a loss of know-how”

Stephen Forsey: “There’s a risk of a loss of know-how”

INTERVIEW

Greubel Forsey recently presented its Hand Made 1. As its name suggests, this exceptional watch was made almost entirely (95%) by hand. Europa Star took (...)