The new collection by the Roman-based brand brings four new models which are at the intersection of fine jewellery and fine watchmaking. But which one stands out more?
Being Italian and having a history of over 130 years has allowed Bulgari to really experiment and be bold with its watch creations. As a perfect example of that, our Watch of the Day from Baselworld is the Bulgari Serpenti collection. The Roman watchmaker has added four new models to the collection, which combines two fields of the maison’s expertise: jewellery and watchmaking.
The most impressive is the Serpenti Incantati, or “enchanting” for us non-speakers of the romance language. Since its introduction in 2016, the line has had growing appeal and this model will surely increase that with its impeccable stone-setting and excellent movement (more on that below).
Of course, most of the attention will be on the case, which wears 41mm wide and is made from ether 18kt pink gold or 18kt white gold. Depending on the model, it is set with either 225 or 237 brilliant-cut diamonds. Visually, it’s meant to give the impression that the diamond-studded serpent is actually in motion.
The Spiga model, in contrast, is the pared down option, which is inspired by the sensuality of black clothes worn tight against the skin. As a result, this model is also free of any gemsetting, focusing the attention only on the curves.
The Tubogas model adds to the Roman jeweler’s bag of tricks. This time around it’s through the use of materials. The new model adopts a new finishing in steel or gold and steel, accompanied by new dials, which makes it among the more affordable options.
The double-coil steel version features a new dial in ruby red, while the steel and gold version – available in single or double-coil versions – has an elegant grey dial. The watch also has a quintuple wrap-around which coils the strap around the arm.
Rounding off the collection is the Seduttoti, which comes in either a pink or white bracelet - a first for Bulgari – that again coils smoothly around the wrist. The serpent this time has either emerald or ruby eyes that gaze at the observer, complemented by additional decorations with tourmaline, tanzanite or sapphire cabochon.
The collection comes standard with the Caliber B033 quartz, which has been custom made for Bulgari. For the aficionados, the Incantati model can also be had with the very serious Caliber BVL 208 manual winding skeleton movement. Housed in the Serpenti Incantati Tourbillon Lumière, the finely finished movement – which is made of gold - delivers up to 64 hours of autonomy and even sports a tourbillon.
Daring and finely executed as always, this collection demonstrates Bulgari’s ability when it comes to combining jewellery and watchmaking. But best of all, the watch designs can be customized online, making sure that each timepieces has just the right kind of sting for each customer.