1. 2016 will certainly be a most
difficult year for the watchmaking industry
overall. But, here at Bulgari,
we’re prepared in that we were aware
of the trend beginning to reveal
itself to various companies within
the industry before summer 2015. This
is not a new phenomenon for us, and
Bulgari is equipped to continue with
its commitments. That said, watchmaking/
luxury-goods markets are cyclical
industries and history demonstrates
this, with peaks and troughs on
average every 5 to 7 years. Today
the reasons for this are multiple,
between the new political policies of
the Chinese Government encouraging
increased purchasing within the home
market and stricter customs controls,
global geopolitical uncertainties, an
unstable economic environment and the
increase in unemployment, etc. All
of this has contributed to a braking
effect on the very strong growth
observed over the last 3 years in the
luxury goods market. However, it’s
worth remembering that watch industry
exports in 2015 were 28% higher than
in 2010, which allowed us to redress
things a little! Here at Bulgari, we
have achieved exceptional results for
the year 2015, a tendency which can
only take a small downwards turn in
2016 and there are various reasons.
I would remind you that contrary to
many other brands which specialise exclusively in watchmaking, this
company consists of several “limbs”:
watchmaking, jewellery, fashion
accessories, hotels and perfumes.
Our spread of activities provides
us with the means to resist business
downturns much better than single
product companies. Furthermore,
our distribution channels provide
us with a supplementary fire-wall,
between directly controlled boutiques
and wholesale. Finally, and not the
weakest argument, our range of watch
products is extremely broad. To
sum up, the doors opening into the
Bulgari universe are highly numerous.
2. Our principal objectives remain
sacrosanct: continue to win over
the market share of our principal
rivals, as we did in 2014 and 2015!
The key to achieving this highly
realistic objective firstly relies
upon the development of product mix/
prices in harmony with market trends
and the customer base, which are not
always the same. Our creativity is
our major strength. Imagine that we
launch, only in relation to watches,
more than 100 different products
each year and in all price ranges!
Regarding the market place, I would
say that we are active on a global
scale. Bulgari is a global brand
present across the world, even though
variations can obviously exist. At
this stage for Bulgari, it’s more
about carrying out fine-tuning in the
markets where we already exist than
opening new and totally unexplored
virgin markets. Nevertheless, some of these still offer development
potential for us, such as India for
example. Our distribution network,
that I mentioned earlier, is well
balanced, between boutiques (300) and
multi-brand partnerships (620). That
said, we will continue to open boutiques
when and where necessary, such
as we’re about to do in Moscow for
example. And on another but parallel
agenda, that of our hotels, we’re
accelerating the rhythm with several
projects underway: Dubai, mainland
China, and others in the future.
3. Mechanical “traditional” watches
will not disappear, that’s a known
fact. The hybridisation that you
allude to sets mechanical watches
against watches that are said to
be “connected” plus other “smartwatches”.
I believe that we’re
talking about 2 completely different
markets, particularly in
the over 5,000 CHF price range.
We’re therefore talking about 2
completely different client types.
Smart-watches concern very specific
population groups both in age-group
and interests, in relation to their
functions: sporting types, the
mobile phone generation, etc. I
see this high-tech market sector
as a “plus” overall, an addition
to what already exists within the
watchmaking industry. In addition,
it isn’t really a watch but a
functional wrist gadget, whereas the
mechanical watch, although having
lost some of its purely functional
values has gained others over time,
these being centered on emotion,
pleasure and hedonism. Smart-watches
are by consequence a means of
growth, which doesn’t mean however
that, mechanical watches are at a
standstill, much to the contrary!
4. For us, Baselworld represents
an indispensible platform. Without
a shadow of a doubt our presence
there is crucial, since it
clearly allows us to develop our
business, and offers Bulgari an
unrivalled opportunity to develop
communications and desirability
over the space of a few days.
EUROPA STAR’S FOUR QUESTIONS
1. What are your predictions for 2016? Do you think that exports will recover, or will the markets stagnate or continue to decline after the slump we saw in 2015? And what do you think were the reasons for the downturn in 2015?
2. What are your priorities for the coming year: consolidating your existing markets, actively exploring new markets (if so, which), rationalising / consolidating / expanding your distribution network, launching new products, PR initiatives, etc.?
3. Over the longer term, do you believe that mechanical watchmaking will gradually die out, hybridise, or continue to occupy its own exclusive niche? Do you see the advent of smartwatches as a potential threat, or an opportunity for growth and diversification?
4. What exactly do you hope to achieve from your participation in Baselworld 2016? Do you feel your presence at the fair is essential to your business, or are such forums less important now than they were in the past?