n keeping with Gerald Charles’s “No Compromise” watchmaking philosophy, laid down by Mr. Genta more than a quarter of a century ago, the Masterlink Perpetual Calendar represents a watchmaking first. In 400 years, a Swiss watchmaking company has never before introduced an in-house, asymmetrical, automatic perpetual calendar calibre with a three-counter display.

Those three counters show the day, date, month, phases of the moon and leap year. These are mechanically programmed to account for month lengths, even in a leap year, for more than 100 years. Indications are fuelled by calibre GCA11000, an automatic movement wound by a golden micro-rotor that offers a power reserve of 50 hours. This new calibre also becomes a platform for future Gerald Charles watchmaking innovations.

The 40mm case and three-link bracelet are both in Grade 5 titanium, and the watch is 10mm thick and weighs just 97 grams. At launch, there will be two versions. The first has a two-level fumé dial with a striking, vertical cut-out “grille” construction, finished in smoked ruthenium that graduates into darker tones towards the dial edge. The second has an open-worked dial that sits under a thin layer of sapphire crystal that holds the watch’s hour markers in place.

Despite its complex geometry and the engineering challenges this creates, the watch is water-resistant to 100 metres. “We’re particularly proud because the Masterlink Perpetual Calendar also conforms to the mission behind all our watches: to be ultra-thin, water-proof and versatile,” said Gerald Charles Chief Executive Federico Ziviani.

Engineers and designers agreed that the new calibre should mirror the asymmetrical case shape and harmonise with it. This meant shaping the movement first, and that the Masterlink’s unique geometry would then be adapted to it. In total, the watch has 505 individual components: 306 in the GCA11000 movement, 33 in the case, 15 in the dial and 151 in the bracelet.

Price upon request

www.geraldcharles.com