ne way to understand trends in watch sizes since the turn of the twenty-first century is to look at evolutions in the Fifty Fathoms Automatic. Having debuted in 2007 in a 45mm diameter, followed by 42mm versions in 2024, the latest 38mm iterations reflect the emergence of renewed appreciation for smaller dimensions. Not that one model replaces another: this legendary watch, in its automatic version, extends its line-up, leaving everyone, irrespective of gender, free to choose theirs.

This choice goes beyond diameters to include distinct combinations of colours and materials. Three in the case of the new 38mm models, to accentuate each version’s individual character: blue dial, blue bezel, brushed grade 23 titanium case; blue dial, blue bezel, brushed 5N 18k red gold case; or black dial, black bezel, polished 316L steel case. Lightweight, refined or versatile, the different attributes underscore the multiple facets offered by this legendary dive watch, available with Tropic, sail canvas or NATO straps, as well as a new integrated bracelet in brushed titanium or alternating brushed and polished steel.

The Fifty Fathoms Automatic gets a 38mm diameter, with a choice of three materials (steel, titanium or red gold) and a black or blue dial. The automatic Calibre 1150 movement provides four days of power reserve. The Fifty Fathoms Automatic 38mm responds to growing demand for watches suited to smaller wrists.

Common denominators include sunburst dials, enhanced by oversized luminous markers for optimal legibility that align with the Fifty Fathoms’ origins as a tool watch for divers – as does the unidirectional bezel with domed sapphire insert. At the heart of the compact case, the Blancpain Manufacture Calibre 1150 delivers 100 hours (four days) of power reserve. Operating at a frequency of 3Hz, it features a silicon balance spring for anti-magnetic protection. Visible through a sapphire case back, the movement is finished in the finest watchmaking tradition, with an 18k red gold oscillating weight and NAC treatment, inspired by the rotor design of the 1953 model.

A history of innovation

This key year in Blancpain’s history is when the Fifty Fathoms was launched, after Jean-Jacques Fiechter, then CEO of the Swiss brand and an accomplished diver, together with Captain “Bob” Maloubier, founder of the French Navy’s combat swimmer unit, set out to produce a dive watch worthy of the name: one capable of withstanding the most extreme conditions.

This roadmap gave rise to a number of major innovations: a lockable rotating bezel; advanced water-resistance of 50 fathoms or 91.44 metres; a secure crown system; automatic winding; a dark dial with luminous markers for maximum legibility, and anti-magnetic protection — all features that established the Fifty Fathoms as the blueprint for the modern dive watch.

Since its reintroduction, and growing popularity, in the twenty-first century, the Fifty Fathoms has lent itself to multiple variations. This year, in addition to the three versions already mentioned, Blancpain is releasing a 38mm Fifty Fathoms Automatic in a red gold case paired with a gradient black mother-of-pearl dial: a natural connection to the marine world. This model is equipped with the Manufacture Calibre 1153 (no date).

Creation of marine protected areas

Blancpain demonstrates its commitment to the ocean on the one hand through innovation and legacy and, on the other, through conservation of marine ecosystems. For over two decades, the Blancpain Ocean Commitment programme has encompassed the brand’s global initiatives to support ocean exploration and protection.

To date, working alongside explorers, scientists, photographers and organisations, Blancpain has supported more than 40 major scientific expeditions around the globe. The scientific results and stunning images they have produced are widely shared through publications and exhibitions, to raise the public’s awareness and support for conservation efforts.

The brand actively advocates for the creation of marine protected areas. So far, with Blancpain’s support more than 4.7 million sq. km. of ocean have been protected thanks to the creation of 20 such areas. Promoting awareness of these remarkable marine environments, supporting scientific research and developing innovative diving techniques: the Blancpain Ocean Commitment takes multiple forms.

As part of this programme, Blancpain recently opened the Blancpain x Sulubaaï Marine Research Center in the Palawan archipelago in the Philippines, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The centre aims to facilitate the study, restoration and protection of Shark Fin Bay, as well as ensure the ongoing preservation of the marine protected areas which are managed by local communities.

Since 2012 Blancpain has also supported The Economist’s World Ocean Summit as the Founding Partner. This international conference brings together leaders from governments, academia, NGOs and the private sector to advance sustainable ocean practices.

The Manufacture is also the Founding Partner of Laurent Ballesta’s Gombessa Expeditions, a centrepiece of the Blancpain Ocean Commitment since 2013. A multi-awarded underwater photographer and marine biologist, Ballesta leads these expeditions which bring unique scientific data and images, unveil ocean secrets and represent a diving challenge.

The Fifty Fathoms Automatic is also available with a 38mm case in red gold, paired with a new gradient black dial in mother-of-pearl. The movement is the Manufacture Calibre 1153 (no date).

One such expedition set out to unravel the mystery of the “coral rings” that cover the seabed off the coast of Cap Corse (a documentary about the expedition can be viewed online). A pluridisciplinary scientific investigation, this was also an extraordinary underwater exploration that involved 21 days of saturation diving, three weeks of autonomous deep dives, and the use of two submarines and remotely operated vehicles. A total 937 hours of underwater exploration were conducted, with 32 scientific protocols implemented to analyse the rings and the exceptional biodiversity they harbour.

Laurent Ballesta and his team use electronically controlled closed-circuit mixed gas rebreathers to reach extreme depths, and there is a close connection between innovation in diving and innovation in the watches it inspires. Ballesta is perhaps best known for his expeditions in search of the rare coelacanth “dinosaur fish”, which he encountered in South Africa in 2013. At end 2024 (the scientific results and announcement were recently published), a team led by Alexis Chappuis and UNSEEN Expeditions, supported by Blancpain, found and photographed the first living coelacanth in the Maluku archipelago, in Indonesia. This species, which appeared 400 million years ago, had previously been thought to have become extinct 70 million years ago. Did someone say vintage?

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

• Fifty Fathoms Automatic, Ref. n° 5007
• Movement: Blancpain Manufacture Calibre 1150
• Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
• Winding: Automatic. Power reserve: 4 days
• Dimensions: 26.2 × 3.25 mm
• Frequency: 3Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour)
• Jewels: 28. Number of components: 210
• Case: 316L steel, grade 23 titanium or 5N 18k red gold
• Crystal and case back: Sapphire crystal
• Water-resistance: 30 ATM (300 metres)
• Diameter: 38.2 mm. Thickness: 12 mm. Lug-to-lug: 19 mm
• Dial: Black or blue, white or red gold markers filled with Super-LumiNova®
• Bracelet and straps: Grade 23 titanium, NATO, Tropic or sail canvas with folding clasp or pin buckle depending on the material
• Limited edition: No

www.blancpain.com